Turkish Fermented Drinks: Ayran, Şalgam, Boza and Kefir

Pakistan has a long tradition of fermented and cultured drinks: lassi, chaach, and kanji made from black carrots every winter. Turkey has its own versions, and some of them are almost twins of ours. This guide explains the four best known, how they’re made, and what you should know about fermentation before you try them at home.

A quick word on fermentation

“Fermentation” covers a few different processes. In lactic fermentation, bacteria turn sugars into lactic acid, which gives sourness. Yogurt, lassi, kanji and pickles work this way, and they don’t produce meaningful alcohol. In yeast fermentation, yeasts turn sugars into carbon dioxide and a little alcohol. Some drinks use both. Knowing which is which helps you choose what’s right for you.

Ayran: yogurt and water

Ayran is Turkey’s national cold drink: plain yogurt whisked with cold water and salt until foamy. It’s served with almost every kebab and pide. The yogurt is cultured with bacteria, but the drink itself is mixed fresh, so it’s simply a salted yogurt drink, a close relative of our namkeen lassi. No alcohol, and nothing to worry about.

Şalgam: Adana’s purple drink

Şalgam suyu is made from black carrots fermented in salted water with a little bulgur. It’s sour, salty and deep purple, and it’s drunk with kebabs in southern Turkey. It’s very close to kanji, but without mustard seeds. Like kanji and pickles, it’s a lactic, salt-based ferment.

Home tips: use a clean glass jar, the full amount of salt and boiled, cooled water. Some foam is normal; a thick film or fuzzy mould means the batch should be thrown away.

Boza: millet in a glass

Boza is a thick, sweet-sour winter drink made from cooked millet (bajra) that’s fermented with yeast and lactic bacteria. It’s served cold with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas, and it’s an Istanbul winter institution.

Because yeast is involved, boza contains a small amount of alcohol. When it’s fresh, the amount is very low, and it increases the longer boza is kept, especially at room temperature. Our recipe ferments it for no more than a day and a half and asks you to chill it and finish it within two to three days. If you avoid any fermentation alcohol at all, it’s simplest to skip boza and enjoy salep instead.

Kefir: cultured milk with grains

Kefir is milk fermented with kefir grains, a living mix of bacteria and yeasts. It’s tangy, slightly fizzy and thinner than yogurt. Turkish supermarkets sell it everywhere.

Like boza, kefir contains a trace of alcohol because of the yeasts, usually well under one percent for a normal one-day home ferment. Longer fermenting, warm rooms and sealing bottles tightly for a fizzy second ferment all raise it. If that’s a concern, stick with yogurt drinks like ayran and lassi.

Comparing with Pakistani drinks

Turkish drink	Closest Pakistani relative	Type of fermentation
Ayran	Namkeen lassi, chaach	Cultured yogurt, mixed fresh
Şalgam	Kanji	Lactic, salt-based
Boza	None really; a little like a thin sour porridge	Yeast and lactic
Kefir	Lassi, but fizzier	Yeast and lactic

Making fermented drinks safely at home

• Start clean. Wash jars and spoons in hot soapy water and rinse well.
• Use the right salt amount in vegetable ferments; it protects against harmful bacteria.
• Keep ferments away from direct sun and in a moderate room temperature.
• Trust your senses with care: a pleasant sour smell is good; rotten, mouldy or very slimy is not.
• Refrigerate once ready. Cold slows fermentation down.
• When in doubt, throw it out. Ingredients are cheap compared with a stomach upset.

Fermented drinks are a lovely part of both Turkish and Pakistani food culture. Start with ayran and şalgam, which are the easiest and most familiar, and decide about boza and kefir based on what suits you.