Less spice, more technique
Turkish meat cooking uses far fewer ground spices than Pakistani cooking. A köfte might have only cumin, black pepper and pul biber; a namkeen-style stew just salt and pepper. The flavour comes instead from good meat with enough fat, from charring over high heat, and from the sauces and toppings: tomato butter, garlic yogurt and red butter sizzled with pepper.
Mince is king
Most of the dishes in this section start with mince, and the rules are the same ones Pakistani cooks use for seekh kebab:
- Fat matters. About 20% fat keeps köfte and fillings juicy. Very lean mince makes dry, crumbly results.
- Knead and chill. Kneading makes mince sticky so it holds together; an hour in the fridge helps it keep its shape on the heat.
- Squeeze the onion. Grated onion gives flavour, but its juice makes mixtures wet.
The dishes
İzgara köfte are small, flat grilled meatballs, the everyday favourite. İskender kebab layers thin slices of seared meat over bread with tomato sauce, butter and yogurt. Karnıyarık is eggplant stuffed with mince and baked, a homely dinner close to baingan keema. Mantı are tiny dumplings under garlic yogurt, a weekend project worth the effort.
Serving the Turkish way
A Turkish meat dish almost always comes with buttery şehriyeli pilav or bread, a fresh çoban salatası, sliced onions with sumac, and a jug of ayran. For grilled skewers, see the kebabs from the grill.