Kumpir (Istanbul Loaded Baked Potato)
کمپیر (استنبول کا بھرا ہوا بیکڈ آلو)
Walk along the waterfront in Ortaköy, Istanbul, and you'll see stall after stall selling kumpir: huge potatoes baked until fluffy, split open and mashed inside the skin with butter and grated kaşar cheese until creamy and stretchy, then loaded with whatever toppings you point at, from sweetcorn and olives to pickles, sausage and Russian salad. At home it makes a brilliant build-your-own dinner, especially with children.
- ⏱ Total: 1 hr 30 min
- Prep: 15 min
- Cook: 1 hr 15 min
- Easy
- Serves 4
Method
Tap a step when it is done.
Heat the oven to 200°C. Scrub the potatoes, prick them all over with a fork, rub with oil and salt, and bake directly on the rack for 60–75 minutes until the skins are crisp and a knife slides in easily.
Split each potato lengthwise without cutting through. Add a tablespoon of butter and a handful of cheese, and mash vigorously inside the skin with a fork until creamy and stringy.
Set out the toppings in bowls and let everyone load their own potato. Finish with ketchup, mayonnaise and chilli flakes.
Serve right away.
Kitchen notes
Bake the potatoes directly on the oven rack, not wrapped in foil; foil makes the skins soft.
Mash the butter and cheese in while the potato is piping hot, so the cheese melts and stretches.
Microwave shortcut: cook pricked potatoes for 10–12 minutes, then crisp the skins in a hot oven for 15 minutes.
Ortaköy’s famous potato
Kumpir became a street-food craze in Istanbul in the 1990s, and the stalls under the Bosphorus Bridge in Ortaköy are still the most famous place to eat one. Sellers pile their counters with dozens of colourful toppings, and every customer builds a different potato. It’s cheap, filling and fun, which explains its popularity with students and families.
The secret is the mash
What makes kumpir different from an ordinary baked potato is the step after baking: the hot flesh is mashed right in its skin with plenty of butter and grated cheese until it becomes creamy and stretchy. That rich base is what holds all the toppings.
Cheese and potatoes abroad
Turkish kaşar is a mild, semi-hard melting cheese. Mozzarella, young cheddar or a mix of both works perfectly. Use big floury potatoes; waxy ones won’t fluff up.
Serving
Serve with ayran or limonata. For other Turkish street food, see our Istanbul street food guide.
Questions people ask
What are the classic toppings?
Sweetcorn, peas, olives, pickled gherkins and red cabbage, sucuk, sausages, Russian salad, mushrooms and bulgur salad. Most people choose four or five.
Which potatoes are best?
Large, floury baking potatoes such as Russet or Maris Piper. In South Asia, choose the biggest, driest potatoes you can find.
Can I make it vegetarian?
Easily. Skip the sausage; corn, peas, olives, pickles and cheese make a complete meal.
Nutrition (estimate, per serving)
- Calories
- 620
- Protein
- 20 g
- Fat
- 30 g
- Carbs
- 68 g
