Sindhi Biryani
سندھی بریانی
Sindhi biryani is the biryani Karachi is proudest of: hotter, tangier and more generous than the everyday kind. The masala is cooked with yogurt and tomatoes, then loaded with potatoes, sour aloo bukhara (dried plums) and fistfuls of green chilies and mint. Layered with salted, three-quarter-cooked rice and sealed for , it is the dish for weddings, Eid and any Sunday that needs to feel special.
- ⏱ Total: 2 hr
- Prep: 40 min
- Cook: 1 hr 20 min
- Hard
- Serves 6
Method
Tap a step when it is done.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy . Fry the onions over medium heat for 12–15 minutes, stirring often, until deep golden brown. Lift out half to use as for layering.
Turn the heat to high, add the chicken and fry for 5 minutes until it turns white. Add the and stir for a minute until the raw smell goes.
Add the chopped tomatoes, chili powder, chili flakes, turmeric, coriander powder and salt. Do the until the tomatoes melt, then add the yogurt and keep frying for 8–10 minutes until the oil separates.
Add the potatoes, the drained aloo bukhara, half the green chilies and half a cup of water. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes, until the potatoes are just tender and the chicken is cooked. Stir in the garam masala and half the mint. The masala should be thick, a little saucy and taste slightly too salty.
Meanwhile, bring a large of water to a rolling boil with 2 tablespoons of salt, the bay leaves, cumin, cardamom and cloves. Add the drained rice and boil for 6–8 minutes.
Drain the rice as soon as it reaches : the grain breaks easily between your fingers but still has a firm white core.
Layer the biryani: spread half the rice over the masala, then scatter half the birista, the tomato slices, the remaining mint, coriander and green chilies. Cover with the rest of the rice, drizzle the colour and in streaks and top with the remaining birista.
Seal the pot tightly with foil or a dough strip under the lid and cook on over the lowest heat for 15–20 minutes, with a tawa under the pot if your stove runs hot.
Rest for 5 minutes, then mix gently from the sides so every plate gets white and yellow rice, chicken, potato and a plum or two. Serve with raita.
Kitchen notes
Don't skip the aloo bukhara. Their sourness is what makes Sindhi biryani taste like itself; a squeeze of lemon is a poor substitute.
Cut the potatoes large. Small pieces fall apart during dum and turn the bottom layer mushy.
The masala should look a little wetter than a dry curry before layering. The rice absorbs that moisture during dum.
Karachi’s favourite biryani
Sindhi biryani grew up in Sindh and became the signature rice of Karachi, where biryani shops, wedding caterers and home kitchens all compete over it. It is recognisable at a glance: big pieces of potato, dark sour plums, whole green chilies and mint scattered through rice streaked with yellow. It is eaten at weddings, on Eid and for Sunday lunch, with raita and a plain salad to cool things down.
The masala carries the dish
Everything depends on the masala. Fry the onions properly for sweetness, do a thorough with tomatoes and yogurt until the oil separates, and only then add the potatoes and aloo bukhara so they cook in the masala and soak it up. Taste before layering: it should be a little too salty, too sour and too hot on its own, because the plain rice will soften all three.
The rice is boiled separately in very salty water with whole spices and drained at , then layered and sealed so the steam from the masala finishes it on .
Variations
- Mutton: the other classic version; allow time for the meat to soften.
- Fried potatoes: some cooks deep-fry the potatoes first so they hold their shape and add a golden edge.
- Extra tang: a few spoons of plain yogurt between the layers make it even sharper.
Storing and reheating
Sindhi biryani keeps for 2 days in the fridge and many people think it tastes better the next day. Reheat covered on low heat with a sprinkle of water, or in the microwave under a damp paper towel.
Questions people ask
What makes Sindhi biryani different from other biryanis?
Potatoes, aloo bukhara, more green chilies and a sharper, tangier masala with plenty of yogurt and tomato. It is generally spicier than Punjabi or Hyderabadi biryani.
Can I make it with mutton?
Yes, mutton Sindhi biryani is very popular. Cook the mutton in the masala, covered, for 1–1½ hours until tender before adding the potatoes, then continue the same way.
Can I use a packet biryani masala?
Many homes do. Use it in place of the chili powder, coriander, turmeric and garam masala, and taste before adding salt because packet masalas are already salted.
Nutrition (estimate, per serving)
- Calories
- 824
- Protein
- 36 g
- Fat
- 32 g
- Carbs
- 98 g